Creating more realistic ladders in HO Scale

This guest post is courtesy of Bill Welch and highlights his love of upgrading details on freight car models...

It began innocently I thought. In 2015, I made the rounds of Cocoa Beach-Prototype Rails, Collinsville and Lisle (now the Chicagoland RPM) with a presentation entitled Xxtreme Modeling. In this presentation I spotlighted a model of one of the Tennessee Central’s (TC) steel box cars where I claim I improved several details including the InterMountain styrene ladders included in a resin kit from WrightTRAK, using Plastruct 0.010" styrene rod. (Grandt Line also makes 0.010" styrene rod but it is gray; Plastruct’s rod is white making it much easier to use for making new ladder rungs.) Then in late 2015 it became apparent that with the aid of my friend Andy Carlson, through his relationship with InterMountain (IM), I would be able to acquire more Red Caboose X29 and 1923 ARA kits. (The Red Caboose molds are now owned by InterMountain.) Given the possibility I could add to my stash of these kits, I decided I would finally build the several models I wanted based upon these kits. Meanwhile, I did much hand wringing because I realized I had not purchased any undecorated Branchline 40-foot Postwar AAR steel box car kits and was caught napping when they sold their line of freight car kits to Atlas. I wanted several of these to build for the various Ya’ll Road owners of these cars. Through friends and the Atlas website, I have been able to acquire enough kits to build the models I want and I have started working on a couple of Branchline kits (A&WP and WofA). I am also working on two Atlas 1932 ARA kits (Erie and M-I) and two InterMountain AAR 1937 Modified Kits (Southern and KO&G). So I guess that 2016 is my “Year of Styrene faux Steel" (Now clearly stretching into 2017, hah).

Photo 1

Okay enough background, now onto the subject of improving kit ladders. I have been scratchbuilding ladders now for several years when it is warranted. Especially with wood sheathed cars ladders tended to vary. This is how I became comfortable using the 0.010" styrene rod. The TC model (photo #1) was the first time I used Kadee’s very fine bracket grabs. (Yarmouth Model Works sells a drill template for these.) Once these were mounted on the car I knew the IM ladders furnished in the kit would not do with their now visually heavy ladders rungs or treads. Leaving the ladders on their sprue for stability and strength I used sprue nippers to cut off the molded-on treads (photos #2 & 3). 

Photo 2

Photo 3

I don’t remember now but I may have also used them to pinch off the bolt detail: Just as likely I used a trusty Single Edge Razor Blade (SERB) to do this. I used the SERB to cut the rod into several small sections and proceeded to glue the rod onto the stile using liquid Testors and a small brush, locating them using whatever vestige of the molded-on treads still existed. (photos #4 and 5)  

Photo 4

Photo 5

This goes pretty quickly and it is not difficult to get most of them in place at 90°. Where I miss getting them straight, it is easy to go back and wet a joint with Testors to loosen it and get it straight. I let the ladders dry overnight and then used my nippers to cut the excess rod. Once the model was painted I was very pleased with the result. (photos #6 & 7)

Photo 6 

Photo 7

Whenever possible, especially with something like steel cars of a standard design, I like to build two or more models at a time so that I can do the repetitive steps concurrently. Detailing underframes and building the brake system two-at-a-time is faster than one-at-a-time ultimately for example. This certainly applies to modifying kit ladders so I am working on several sets currently. I decided to change my approach a little bit, cutting the treads off at an angle so as to leave a little nub of styrene (photo #8). 

Photo 8

These nubs give me something to aim at when putting the bits of rod in place and also give the rod sections a small base of styrene, making a solid joint. This way some of the bolt detail on the stiles remains. The downside is that I need to cut each section of rod to the same length. Photos #9, 10 and 11 show the result on a set of B&O 7-rung ladders.

Photo 9 - the molded-on treads compared to the new 0.010" treads

Photo 10 - a completed ladder

Photo 11 - the new ladder on the model

Atlas makes things a little harder as the detail parts in their kits come cut from the sprues so I had to improvise a way to hold them steady while worked ladder for their 1932 ARA steel boxcars. Taping their ladders to metal ruler (photo #12) made it easy to hold them rigid yet the metal meant the ladder would not accidentally get glued to something. Photo #13 shows what the improved ladder looks like on the car side.

Photo 12

Photo 13

Photos #14 and 15 show a set of ladders for a Maine Central 1923 ARA boxcar with new treads in place with their mounting straps in place also. I am going to wait until I am ready to glue them in place to trim the ends and cut them from the sprue. 

Photo 14

Photo 15

Photos #16 and #17 show Red Caboose X29 and InterMountain AAR 1937 Modified kit ladders, respectively.

Photo 16

Photo 17

Photos #18 and #19 are Branchline Postwar AAR kit ladders in process and completed. This kind of work takes a little more time but for the present I like the result. You must decide for yourself if you like the results.

Photo 18

Photo 19

Adobe Lightroom for Model Railroaders

During my clinic at the RPM in Collinsville, IL (St. Louis) this past weekend (August 12-13, 2016) I mentioned that I would post a link to the presentation file. The file can be reached by clicking here.

It bears mentioning as many times as possible that if you are viewing the file separate from the live presentation at the St. Louis RPM, there was a companion “ride along” demonstration showing Lightroom’s capabilities directly from Lightroom that is absent from the file. Without that, some material presented may not be entirely clear or may seem too simplistic. Please consider attending a future RPM to see the “Full Monty”.

Interesting tarp cover on a gondola

I have seen plenty of photos of tarped loads on flat cars, usually covering equipment. However, I can't recall seeing a gon with a tarp. I'm certainly not saying this photo is unique, but given the number of photos I have seen, this one stood out. It would make an interesting and relatively easy thing to recreate. I'm leaning towards a microfiber cloth dyed to simulate the canvas tarps of the late Steam Era. I think it's worth a try. When I do it, you'll see it here.

The gon is PRR 337254, a GRA, reweighed in March, 1950 at the Rose Lake, Illinois, eastbound shops on the Pennsy.

The subject of the photo was a New Haven I-4 Pacific in the Hartford Yards, but this is far more interesting, so I zoomed in and cropped to show all of the gon that I could. All three cars can be modeled in HO. The gon can be replicated using the Westerfield kit, the Texas & Pacific automobile car can be built using an MDC single sheathed auto car (read about how in Prototype Railroad Modeling, Volume 3) and the Pere Marquette auto car can be built from Speedwitch kit K111 (wow! two Speedwitch plugs in one sentence!)

Ladders... arrrggghhhh!

The "completed" ladder prior to trimming the top and bottom to length. but with all other detailing added

One of the great frustrations of marketing resin kits is trying to maintain consistency even as the components that are needed to produce kits come and go. Perhaps the ultimate manifestation of this is ladders. There have only been a few choices for ladders even in the best of times. However, with the unavailability of the Branchline parts and the demise of the Details West 8-rung ladder, a huge void has opened in the ladder aftermarket. When you design a kit with a specific ladder in mind, it can be crushing to be unable to obtain that part.

The basic ladder frame with grooves and spacers, awaiting the addition of the rungs

Etched ladders are an option, but I intensely dislike the two-dimensional look of them, for both the rungs and the hardware to attach the rungs to the stiles. The rungs look flat and the hardware is either flat or absent. (Note: etched stiles with grabs are a great way to replicate Wine ladders, so etchings are not without some applications, in my opinion.)

After the addition of the first rung, but prior to the removal of the first spacer

With these obstacles in mind, I have decided to try a new approach. My next kit incorporates cast resin ladder parts with grooves for the rungs. The rungs are created using either 0.010" or 0.012" wire that is glued in the grooves. The ladders are "pre-spaced" so that the only necessity is to cut away the spacers as the rungs are added. Once the basic structure of the ladder is complete, a "face" with the appropriate detail is added to finish it off.

Three rungs in place and one spacer removed

Yes, this entails extra work. That's the downside, although it takes less than ten minutes to make a ladder and about five once you get the hang of it. The upside is that the detail looks good, the rungs are durable, and the spacing is exactly correct for the prototype.

After removal of the second spacer

I'd love to hear others' thoughts either in theory or after you have a chance to give it a try. These will debut with the Ann Arbor single sheathed box and auto cars.

Fourth rung added and third spacer removed

Six rungs down, one rung and one spacer to go!

All seven rungs in place, spacers removed, awaiting the addition of there "face"

It's still magical

Pacific Fruit Express R-30-14 32983 from the Michael Urac Collection

I spent most of today in a darkroom, printing photos from the Michael Urac Collection as I am diligently working to get another volume of Focus on Freight Cars put together. It is the first time I have printed photos from negatives since my last year of high school. In a word, it was magical. I had forgotten about how exciting it is to put the paper into a tray of developer and wait in anticipation until that blank sheet springs to life as a photo. 

How you may ask, did I do it, given that I am smack dab in the middle of moving? I joined a community photography center - PhotosynthesisCT. If you have old negatives, be they of freight cars or anything else, I urge you to see if you have such a resource in your community. Alternatively, you could also break out that old Nikon and throw a roll of Tri-X into it and see what magic you can create. Go for it; it's a lot of fun...

P.S. as a little teaser, I'll let slip that the photo shown above will be in Volume 3 of Focus on Freight Cars.

Frogtape

That familiar harvest yellow reminds you of another brand, huh?

Many of us have come to love using Tamiya's masking tape. When used for masking paint, it creates crisp edges yet it doesn't pull up paint like many other masking tapes. It has a well-deserved reputation among modelers for getting the job done. Unfortunately, like many specialty items that we use, particularly those from Tamiya, its price carries a premium compared to the diminutive size of the rolls.

There is an excellent alternative that costs a fraction of what Tamiya does and performs just as effectively. Frankly, I think it is the same stuff. I found mine at a Sherwin-Williams paint shop, but I am sure it can be purchased elsewhere. It's called Frogtape and is marketed to interior house painters as, you guessed it, a superior masking tape that doesn't pull up the paint underneath it. I have rolls that are 24mm (0.94 in) and 36mm (1.41 in) wide, both in 60 yard lengths. That might be a lifetime supply for modeling. I highly recommend it.

Some progress

Decal artwork for SP/T&NO F-70-6 & -7 flat cars

I had posted awhile back on the SP F-70-6/F-70-7 flat car kit from Espee Models and the PRR F29 depressed center flat car from Funaro & Camerlengo. Progress has been somewhat slowed by an impending move that is now in the process of happening. However, I did manage to get the artwork for the decals sent off to be printed. That gives me some motivation to have the cars painted and ready to be lettered when the decals arrive.

Decal artwork for PRR F29 & F33 flat cars

I also managed to get the boiler load finished and I will post that progress in the near future. It will be loaded on the F29.

Enjoy the artwork until next time. Note: these decals will be available from Speedwitch.