|I built this model so long ago that this tiny image is all I have. It's from the days of scanning images from actual photographic prints! The model is a Westerfield G22 kit with a pipe load from drinking straws
For HO scale modelers, there is no shortage of options to replicate the PRR's G22 classes of gondolas. The first (to my knowledge) were the Westerfield resin kits, some of the earliest offerings that he produced, with the first kits from Elk Grove Village, IL (before his move to Tennessee) using the graphite-colored, brittle resin. With the move to Tennessee, he shifted to the familiar, flexible grey resins used since, with the exception of the metal-floor castings. These were (and still are) extremely nice replicas of the three main classes of G22. The model pictured above is one of my efforts from 20+ years ago. Westerfield offers containers for these cars, too.
|image courtesy of brasstrains.com
|Rapido is offering the three main classes, G22, G22A, and G22B, as well as containers
Within the last week, Rapido has announced that they will produce injection molded models of the G22 family of gons in HO scale. Given the large number of these cars, it is not a surprise. The test shots shown at the ARHS show in West Springfield look quite nice and should please the vast majority of modelers. There will be models of all three main classes plus containers (a single block of containers.) Nice features are the well-detailed cast metal floor and both types of trucks. There are many schemes being offered, including undecs. Visit the Rapido site for details.
This brings me to the final entrant in the G22 sweepstakes: the Funaro & Camerlengo kit that I have been building on and off for the past few years. It is a one-piece, cast resin kit for the modernized version of the G22 and it includes interior stake pockets. It is a fairly simple build and recommended for those new to resin. However, I do have a caution... there were several air bubbles and even a void caused by air in the sides and top of the sides. I did some filling and patching, but if you are new to resin, that would be a huge drag to deal with. Beware!
Rather than chronicle the entire build, I will list what I did differently from the basic kit. Apologies for the images of the white F&C resin... it's hard to see, whether building or photographing the model! In no particular order:
- I replaced the cast resin sill steps with more fine and durable ones from Yarmouth, augmented with 0.005" styrene "mounts" (rivets to be added)
- I used a Precision Scale retainer valve and 0.008" wire
- I opted for Yarmouth Carmer uncoupling devices, again in the interest of fidelity and durability
- The brake staff bracket was fashioned from 0.003" brass cut to a strip and shaped as shown with no. 80 holes added, then secured with Scale Hardware 0.4mm rivets on posts
- The brake staff and hand wheel are spare Overland Models parts picked up years ago
- The lower brake staff bracket was fashioned from 0.15mm phosphor bronze, cut to shape and bent as shown, augmented with chain and wire for the linkage to the main brake rod [I don't have great photos of this bracket; what you see is my best guess from the images I do have.] Note that the brake staff has to pass through the end sill, then the chain, then the bottom of the bracket... fun to assemble!
- 1x4 styrene strip, 10 scale inches long, to simulate the route car boards. Rivets to be added
- Yarmouth angle cock parts with Moloco rubberized angle cock/air hoses
- Bowser Crown 70-ton trucks with Reboxx wheelsets
- Speedwitch pressure head cylinder and integral lever bracket (in stock as I type this)
- Scratchbuilt styrene top corner gussets
- 0.010" wire grabs
- 0.005" 4-inch wide crossbearer cover plates (more like splice plates really)
|Note the sill steps and retainer valve
|these images highlight the Carmer uncoupling devices, the brake hardware, the top corner gussets, and the angle cock/air hose
|The styrene route card board is visible just above the side sill, along with one of the casting "voids" that necessitated filling and repair (the grey area just below the bulb angle at the top of the side