Weathering Book

 

mig Ammo (the paint and related supplies company) published a series of books related to the various techniques and skills needed to build and finish military models. Number 4 in the series (Encyclopedia of Aircraft modelling techniques) is "Weathering." Yes, I am aware that aircraft, armor, etc., aged and deteriorated in different ways than railroad equipment. However, the general techniques, materials, and tools presented in this book are excellent and would be a valuable reference to anyone seeking to learn about weathering or enhance their existing skills. In particular it covers techniques like chipping and using tools like watercolor pencils; my skills for both could stand improvement!  I cannot wait to try out some of the materials and techniques and will present the results on this blog. Military modelers always seem to be ahead of the curve on their skills, materials, and tools, although when the model is the only and end result, it makes the building and finishing paramount. If you can't hide the work among a sea of cars, structures, and scenery on a layout, close inspection is the only way to view it, revealing all flaws (and features too!)

I purchased my copy on ebay, although I noted that there are copies to be found there as well as from online hobby sellers that cater to the military modeling community. A good addition to the library

Where we are at...

 

I am typing this from an almost horizontal position. I was supposed to be arriving at Naperville today, but my balky back made other plans. So, I type this from home. It's been a couple months or so since I started things back up in earnest, including casting. As the "RPM season" sets in, I thought it a good time to share a little bit about what's coming over the next few months.

Some old Speedwitch stuff turned up: DT&I gondola, MEC ARA box car parts, NYC stock car roof and 50' combination rectangular and diagonal panel roof (some prototype details here.)

Parts sets have proven to be a good way to dip my toes in the casting pool. I mostly learned a few things about what shape of mold works best for me and how I like a few varieties of silicone. I am adding a couple wrinkles to the existing offerings. First, for the ATSF Bx-34 parts I have added the 1959-1970s scheme, illustrated in the photo at the top of the page. In addition, I have added Shadow Keystone decals covering 1950s+ schemes for the PRR X32A parts. 

This and the following three photos are of the R-40-25 parts

On the parts front, there are also a couple other offerings nearing release. The first is the PFE R-40-25. This set is intended for an undecorated Intermountain R-40-23 kit or any Amarillo/Intermountain PFE R-40-25 that is NOT the delivery scheme as the UP medallions on those cars are incorrect (I will share info on that when these parts are released.) The sets include correct resin ends and etched parts to correct/upgrade the underframe, side sill details, ladders, hatch cover supports, steps, etc. [there is a companion set for the R-40-26 that is in the works, as well; see undeframe photo below.] The other parts release is for the ITC 1937 AAR box cars with AC&F Carbuilder's ends and also includes resin details, etchings, and decals.

R-40-26 underframe floor casting... board-by-board!

Illinois Terminal AC&F Carbuilder's end for 1937 AAR box car (pre-production before changes)

Photo illustrating the extremely subtle ripples in the side sheathing of the PRR X43A

I am also charging ahead with some full kit offerings. The first is the Milwaukee 50' single sheathed auto cars that I teased awhile back. It will be released November 1st via the Speedwitch site (all decals, etchings, trucks, and other parts are already in house so they will ship immediately!) Another project is the Pullman-Standard-built Central of Georgia 10'0" inside height Emergency box car (PS if you have National Scale Car's set for the A&WP/WofA/Georgia, those decals will work on this model, as well.) If the CofGa offering proves popular, I will add Birmingham Southern, as well. I also have three PRR cars in the hopper: the G28, X43A and X45. The G28 is a project that I started years back. It will be a showstopper, with full underframe detail... and the underframe was a unique welded design with very interesting crossmembers so it bears full attention! The X43A was a 40', mostly postwar AAR design car, with welded sides. I have created patterns with extremely subtle waviness to the sides that I am extremely pleased with and they were unusual in the PRR universe in that they were delivered with black roofs. The last of these three is the X45, a proprietary PRR design for a 50' welded box car. I again added waviness to the sides and the Pennsy proprietary details, including the underframe, are really cool. 

The last of the full kits, but by no means least, and listed in its own paragraph, is a Western Pacific flat car built by AC&F in 1942 that is a fully 3D printed offering. It is spectacular. More details to follow on this gem...

A final tease... several years back I presented a clinic including details about scratchbuilding board-by-board patterns for single sheathed cars. I have been fruitlessly looking for those patterns for over a year. I thought they were lost in the past year's move. Well, a few weeks back, they were presented to me. Turns out I had sent them to someone along with a bunch of other stuff and they were returned! Here is the end for the car in question. IYKYK 

Yarmouth Model Works Etchings

 

An SP&S flat car that I mostly scratchbuilt and used YMW etched sill steps for detailing

Like many of you, I depended upon the Yarmouth Model Works etched metal detail parts for various projects. The shuttering of the brand has been met with shock and dismay by the modeling community. However, I am fortunate to be able to help stem that pain in some measure. I have taken on the etched metal parts line and am currently offering it via ebay “Buy it Now,” as that was the easiest and most expeditious path to getting it up and running. Over time, I will try to migrate it over to the Speedwitch site. Until then you can find what's available via this link.

An F&C PRR G22 with YMW sill steps and Carmer uncoupling devices

One note: I cannot guarantee that all items will be available at all times or will be rerun once sold. So, in other words, what's available is what's available. Also, I have not made any concrete decisions about taking this "on the road" to RPM meets. Once I decide about that, I will post an update in the usual places. 

Thanks to Pierre for making all these available and for reaching out to me to see about keeping it alive

Framingham Wool

 

This image is an ebay find that is one of those scenes that appears quite plain, yet has many of the details that we seek to replicate in our scaled-down worlds. The structure is part of Framingham Wool Company. Interestingly, while Framingham has a history in the industry, my attempts to find info about this specific company proved fruitless. 

There are many interesting details (to me, at least.) The last "inset" at the end of the platform and the one across from the end of the car closest to the photographer's position are doors. The center section has a classic gooseneck lamp over the doorway and sign that probably read, "Freight Office" or "Shipping & Receiving" or some other similar notation. That section presumably contained a freight elevator with the shaft running up to the roof. There is a single, window-mounted air conditioner unit on the third floor, presumably for an office space. The power pole at lower right has great detail, as well. Note how the vertical concrete sections between the windows are deeper by one or two factors for the lower floors. That's a highly realistic structural feature that is missing from many scale buildings.

Morris Abowitz photo

The Soo Line auto car was from groups of cars built in 1937, 1940, and 1942, by Pullman-Standard. They were assigned to series 76000-76198, 76200-76398, 175000-175498, 175500-175698, 175700-175898, and 175900-176498, even numbers only. There is one additional series, 176500-176598, although with my references I cannot confirm that it is identical. Resin Car Works offered HO scale kits for these cars that are currently out of production.

One other random detail is that there is actually a small rail yard visible at upper left, above the roof line. There isn't much to discern, but I could make out New Haven and Cotton Belt box cars.

All in all, a perfectly plain yet rich scene

PRR X32A Build part one

Late last year, the PRR Projects group announced the X32/X33 as the subject of their first half of '25 group build project (after a poll of members.) I'd been wanting to model and X32A, so I jumped at the chance. Based upon my research, I knew there were some things I wanted to address with the Bowser undecorated model that I had. The Bowser Pennsy wagon roof (or "round roof") design cars are exceptionally well-tooled HO scale models. However, they have cast-on details like the ladders, grabs, placard boards, and end brake details.

The underframe also has some issues. The bottom cover plate is incorrect; it should only have one row of rivets with the rivet row centered over bottom flange of crossbearer. The top cover plate is the same shape but offset and is centered over two rows of rivets, as it is riveted through to the flange of the crossbearer as well as the flange of the angle that stiffens the crossbearer. Put another way the bottom and top cover plates are the same size and shape, but if looking straight down, they do not align, as the top cover plate is centered over the main portion of the crossbearer while the bottom cover plate is centered under the flange of the crossbearer (see drawing snippet.) This also ignores that fact that the Bowser underframe members are all "blobs" with no undercut detail.

Notice that the two crossbearer cover plates are not aligned, but are rather offset to be centered based upon what they are riveted to

The cast-on detail of the ends was the other main consideration. The plan was to remove the portion of the Bowser end that has corrugations, ladders, other details, etc. (there is a "ghost" trace line visible that can be used as a guide - see photo below.) and add a Detail Associates 4/5 end section, suitably modified. On the DA end, I’m not wild about the end portion of the ribs adjacent to the corners and rivets also need to be removed, but it is a sufficiently “easy” starting point compared to removing and adding a Red Caboose end (which has weak rib shape anyway) or cutting and splicing Details West ends to arrive at a wider 4/5 end starting with a “narrow” 4/4 end.) Note that the Dreadnaught end on the Bowser X32A has a shorter top rib, similar to the X31, but the prototype X32A had a full-width top rib, like the other eight ribs on the end. While my model shown here used the Detail Associates end, I did go through the exercise of cutting and splicing a Details West end to include in the parts offering (shameless plug alert.)

The end of the Bowser model contains a "ghost" trace line that can be used as a reference for where to scribe a line to be used for snapping out the end section

Removal of the end sections would seem to represent a high hurdle to this kitbash. However, I have a way that I believe makes it a much easier task. By gluing small pieces of strip to the corners, I created "stops" that the steel ruler could rest against, allowing me to scribe straight lines in the precise location needed to facilitate the scribe and snap method. 

Bits of styrene strip, glued on the side of the end that is to be removed, can be used to lay a ruler against for scribing a "snap" line in the styrene. Ruler not shown, but it would rest to the right of the strip bits when used to scribe the line

This image illustrates the end with everything in place to begin to remove the material. A steel ruler placed against the stops (from the top of the end) allows for a straight scribe line

The center portion of the end was removed by cutting in two places from the bottom of the end to the upper horizontal scribe lines, using a Dremel tool with a cutoff disc. The center section was then "snapped" off by pushing it into the carbody along the scribe line and then moving back and forth along the scribe line until it broke free

Cuts were made along the top of the end section using a razor saw. With these cuts completed, the end section is only connected along the adjacent edge shared with the side. Again using a scribe line, the two end sections were gently pushed "into" the carbody along the scribe line and then moved back and forth to free the sections.

This is the end view of the car after removal of most of the end

This is a side view after removal of the end

This illustrates the replacement end panel using a Detail Associates Dreadnaught end, plus many of the various etched metal detail additions

This is the pattern for the end section included in the parts set; this will yield a far nicer outcome than the path I followed with my model 

The new underframe, minus brake levers and rods

The X31/X32 and X33 family used two heavy steel sections for the underframes, with two flanges on top (like an "I" beam and one on the bottom, riveted together on top with a cover plate. This was at a time when industry practice was moving to zee-bar center sills welded along a flange, like the 1932 ARA design box car.

This is a closeup of the brake gear components and some of the underframe detail. 

The underframe is the other major upgrade I made. Due to restrictions of a single piece tooled underframe, the nuances of channels, flanges, etc., cannot be rendered. I wanted to replicate these features, as well as to add a complete set of brake equipment. I scratchbuilt the basic underframe from styrene and then augmented with etchings, as shown. 

I will show more of the detailing and finishing in part two and also point out some fo the things I did not get perfectly correct. Until then...

Santa Fe Bx-34 Modified 1937 AAR Box Car

 

August 5, 1947, PRR siding, Division St., Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, Bob Charles Collection, Kalmbach Memorial Library

I thought a fitting addendum to my previous post would be one highlighting the prototype that was announced, the Santa Fe's Class Bx-34 Modified 1937 AAR box cars. The Santa Fe was the largest owner of Modified 1937 AAR box cars (10'4" to 10'6" inside height and 5/5 Dreadnaught ends, almost exclusively round corner.) The first 1,801 cars, delivered in 1940, were equipped with the Duryea Cushion underframe, like the vast majority of new Santa Fe box and refrigerator cars built in the mid-30s to 1940. The cars were assigned to number series 139500-141300.

Illinois Digital Archives, Pullman History site

The cars received the map scheme, with the first group of cars carrying the "curved" map and the remainder painted with the "straight" map (ATSF 140793 at top sports the curved map while ATSF 140377 directly above carries the straight map*; I could likely be more specific, but my copies of Dobyne's Santa Fe box cars and Hendrickson's Santa Fe freight car painting and lettering books are in boxes somewhere in the house - if you have that info and can post a comment, I will update in the body of the text here. thank you.) The first 1,200 cars received American Steel Foundries spring plankless trucks while the remainder used National Type B-1 trucks. Youngstown doors with Camel fixtures, Ajax power hand brakes, Apex Tri-Lok brake steps, and wood running boards rounded out the main specialties. The roofs were treated with slate granules while the paint was still wet, giving them a pronounced dark grey to black appearance.

This later repaint circa 1959 displays lowered placard and route card boards of a different style than as built, as well as a more modern scheme

These cars (and many other Santa Fe AAR-design cars) featured other unusual details that collectively resulted in distinctive cars. The placard and route card boards on these cars had beveled (or perhaps rounded) top and bottom edges and used brackets with mounts that incorporated "ears" or tabs with holes for rivets to attach to the doors or ends. The top of the right stile on the side ladders was shorter than the left, presumably as a safety feature when a carman swung his foot/leg around when at the top of the car. While these cars had push pole pockets on the ends at the lower corners, they did not have short angle sections below the ladders, as most cars with push pole pockets did; rather, the sill steps mounted to the bottom of the side sill and corners. These cars did not use bracket-type grab irons either, unusual by 1940. Likely due to the four pairs of crossbearers of the Duryea (as opposed to the typical AAR underframe) they used a shorter side sill support section under the door. In the aggregate, the underframe plus these other features make for distinctive prototypes worthy of detailed models.

*images I have of ATSF 140185, 140177, 140809, and 141106 all carry the curved map

New Product and Speedwitch Goings On

Santa Fe Bx-34, Otto Perry photo, Denver Public Library

It's been awhile since I have posted anything about the state of affairs at Speedwitch (or posted much about other things, as well.) Since late last autumn and continuing as I type this, there has been no shortage of things that have limited my ability to do much of anything. The house in Brooklyn has been sold after a ton of work to get it ready (I relinquished my workspace there back in late November.) There has been a steady back and forth between there and the upstate house with a full carload each time. I have been spending most of my weeks upstate, but weekends have been back and forth to Brooklyn. My workspace upstate is what I would call nomadic at best since it is temporary and occupied on and off by a neverending stream of plumbers, electricians, builders, etc., doing work on the house. I spend my days dodging them and trying my best to work on patterns and become adept (enough) at resin casting. My better half still works in NYC, so we had to move her to an apartment over the past few weeks. Oddly (for me) I had several illnesses over the past six months that have sidelined me for the better part of three weeks. I have been frustrated at times, but persistence overcomes resistance...

Santa Fe Bx-34 Duryea Cushion underframe

All that said, there are things coming. I am starting slowly on the resin casting front, with a few parts sets to get my casting chops established. They include the most detailed Duryea underframe I am aware of (regardless of scale) for the Santa Fe's Bx-34 modified 1937 AAR box cars (details via this link) and a significant upgrade for the Intermountain/Amarillo PFE R-40-25, including correct ends and enhancements for details including the ladders, underframe, side sill supports, hatch cover rests, bunker drains, and other details. The last set is upgrade parts for the Bowser Pennsy X32 50' "round roof" cars. While these parts sets include plenty of "extreme" detail, in the parlance of Bill Welch, there are some suggested shortcuts to make them quicker and easier to build, if that is your desire.

Santa Fe Bx-34 end

On the full kit front, I will share a separate post in a few weeks detailing those plans. Much is dependent upon how quickly I feel comfortable with the casting process. While I am thoroughly enjoying the resin casting process I don't want to get too far ahead of myself lest I have to eat a giant helping of crow, but I am having fun (it is much like being in the darkroom... you do a few things that seem to involve process as well as voodoo and magic and end up with really cool results!)