"Brooklyn Car & Foundry" builder's photo of PRR 810328
Picking up where I left off on this build, I added some detail that I felt was best applied after the model had been blasted with aluminum oxide. I added rivets to the side in the locations shown in the photo above. They were harvested from an undecorated Athearn snow plow shell.
The rivets that I applied to the lower crossbearer cover plates are decals from Railtec transfers. While they are white (and perhaps harder to discern,) they are the best shaped rivets on the market.
I am adding a structural steel girder load to the interior. It will be secured in the stake pockets inside the car body. I removed the cast portions, as shown, and added wire to simulate the pockets. The wire was installed in holes drilled into the inside of the side, being careful to NOT drill through to the outer faces of the sides. I formed the wire using simple beading pliers to create the 'U' shapes and secured with ACC. The rivets on the corners were harvested from an undecorated Athearn snow plow shell.
I primed the model with Badger Stynylrez grey primer. It's a fine acrylic primer that I applied by airbrush. I then painted the entire car body, as well as trucks and wheelsets, with Mig Ammo "Red Brown Light" [A. MIG-0914,] which is a nice representation of a slightly faded PRR oxide freight car color. It dried to what I would describe as a "satinish" finish. I sprayed a coat of Quick Shine to create a gloss surface for decaling, again using an airbrush. I applied the decals as shown, including some chalk marks. Both the G22 decals and the chalk marks are National Scale Car offerings. I did omit the reweigh, repack, and brake test data off, as those were applied after some weathering, as the following photos illustrate.
Another beautiful car Ted!
ReplyDeleteThank you Gary!
DeleteAnother great effort, Ted
ReplyDeleteThank you Rich!
DeleteOut of curiosity, what or whose sill steps did you use?
ReplyDeleteHello Mark - they are etched steps from Yarmouth with simulated mounts made from 0.005" styrene
DeleteAlways impressed with your weathering efforts.
ReplyDeleteThank you. I think I've made some strides in that department over the past 12 months
DeleteAs always great modeling. You made mention of "harvesting" rivets. How do you do that?
ReplyDeleteHello Don - Thanks for the comment. I use undec Athearn snowplow shells (more rivets than other sources such as box cars.) I take a chisel blade (like an Xacto no. 17) and remove a bunch of rivets. Do this over a sheet of white paper. Then I take a hobby knife (dull is probably safer) and touch the blade to my tongue and then touch that to the edge of a rivet. The saliva makes the rivet stick to the edge of the blade. I then put a dab of MEK (or any solvent- based glue such as Tenax, Tamiya, Testors, etc.) and glue the rivet in place. While it's still "wet" you can adjust the placement. I will go back and add more solvent ot secure all t he rivets. Note that this only works for gluing rivets to styrene. If gluing to something like resin, I will use Future or Quick Shine as a "glue." This actually goes quite quickly once you get the hang of it and it's far faster than adding rivet-based decals one at a time. When you're doing it, choose the rivets that are laying "flat" on the paper first. Once you've used all those, tap the paper with your finger. The rivets will "jump" and some of those that were not flat, will reorient themselves. Keep doing this until you run out and then repeat. Give it a shot. Good luck!
DeleteI'll have to give it a try. Thank you.
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